Day 27, Tuesday, September 10, The Arctic, 6600 miles from home, preliminary posting

It is almost midnight, and I am tired, so I will be brief now, but fill in more details and photos later. In apologize for any errors in this posting because I don't have time to edit it.

The  featured piece of the January 2002 cover story of the National Geographic was a multi-page spread about Sonntag and my journey to the Arctic, labeling the story, An Incredible Journey.  Indeed it was an incredible journey with that incredible dog, and his magnificent sister, Kessie, and I am not taking about the trip to Alaska when I say that.  But if what happened today as Leben, Erde and I made our way to the Arctic is any indication, that 2000 trip wasn't even a dress rehearsal for this one, it was an audition, to see if I was up to this one.  

Our day started at 4:00 when I was awaken by Erde's frustrated attempt to escape the tent.  I suspected that maybe she had not shaken her gastrointestinal bug, and I was right.  I will again spare my readers the details of what transpired next and leave them for some future writing.  Erde remained outside for the next here hours until I got up for good, tethered to a 15-foot leash, either of her own accord or because in her racing one way or another to find an unspoiled spot, her leash got her tangled up and confined to a small spot in our campsite.

Although our plan was to get on the road to the Dalton Highway and the Arctic by 8:00, a round trip of 400 miles, or hours10, and return to our base camp by the 8:30, the end of usuable daylight, we were already behind schedule by the time I got up.  Regardless of any schedule or plans, I decided that Erde's health was far more important than any goal we had , especially since her gastro problem was now in its fourth day, we would be in Denali for five days in two days, far from any vet, and I could not not feed her until the problem cured itself.  Although this was our only chance to make the Arctic, I decided to find a vet and see if they could see Erde today.

As luck would have it,  I drove no more than 100 feet beyond the entrance of the camp and spotted the Aurora Animal Clinic.  As luck would further have it, although they were booked solid for the next several days, they had an appointment open at 10 a.m., five minutes away.  The vet, a Dr. Poets cn (pronounced Peach) examined Erde, ran some tests, and diagnosed problem, which she probably acquired not from the treats he gets from me despite her pancreatic insufficiency problem, but from the scavenging she does at every camp, more interested in the scraps left behind by the previous campers or their neighbors than the gourmet dog - and often human - food she gets from me.  The vet gave her some metronidazole to take, and an emergency prescription in the event the problem recurs when we are far from a vet, and we were on our way.

By the time we fueled up on water, coffee and gas, it was noon.  We would never make it to the Arctic and then back again by 8:30, and i hate driving in the dark on these moose-band bug truck-frequented roads that are treacherous enough as it is. I had a decision to make.  Should I cancel the Arctic goal, cut short the Denali expedition by a day or more to accommodate the Arctic  goal, or risk driving the Dalton Highway in the dark.  To save a precious 5 minutes, I decided not to fill the extra 5-gallon gas tank I bought yesterday.  After all, I reasoned, the next gas station, two in fact, are 140 miles away, and my tank can go 205 miles on Dalton-like dirt and gravel roads.  I will refill my tank the remaining 60 miles to the Arctic Circle, and then refill it again when we return.  In fact, I really did not need the new extra gas tank after all since I already have an extrav 5-gallon sitting on my roof rack.  So off we drove.

If I had any memories of the absolute splendor of the Dalton Highway,n which I have driven in its entirety four times, twice with Leben and Erde,  they had receded.  What a road!  And when I say road, I refer not only to the views but to the ūber challenges of the road itself.  The road has been much improved since I last drive it in 2001, but it is still not a road for the less confident drivers to take.

Over my adult life, in all its aspects, as those  who know me know I have  encountered many dramatic moments, some of which, admittedly, I brought on myself.  Maybe all of which I brought on myself.  Today, I finally encountered a random series of events that will probably go into my memoir, if I write one, as the most drama-filled day of my life, and by a wide margin  at that.  I want to do justice to the events that occurred, so I will defer saying anything more until later.  It will have to suffice here and now to say only two things.  First, we did make it to the Arctic, at precisely 5:15 Alaska time, basically completing our journey to the ends of the road in the northeast (in Labrador) and northwest  (Alaska), 14,600 miles so far, camping out every night, and not including the trip we still have ahead of us in Denali and then to get home.  The two below photos will serve as proof that we made it there.  (Leben and Erde had already been to Inuvik in Northwest Territory and Prudhoe Bay in Alaska (a.k.a. Deadhorse, so redoing those miles was not necessary.) band second, Erde made it back to our base camp in Fairbanks safely in just 45 minutes beyond the 10 hours I estimated it might take.  But what a day.  If I hsd known the risks that I would encounter and th decisions I would be called on to make. I might have stayed at our base camp trying to get to page 12 of the first of a dozen books I brought with me.

After I try to assimilate the days events and make some sense out of them, I will make a new posting instead of revising this one.  It is 1:30 and I need to get one rest for a busy day tomorrow.  I am just thrilled to be back here safe and in my tent with my two incredible dogs sfter completing our goal

Ed

907-888-8396 cell

www.OTR6.com

P.S.  Leben's wheelchair has been fitted with his new replacement wheel, which arrived by express delivery in a fairbanks yesterday.  His temporary wheel has been retired.

Also, somewhere at home, I have photos of Leben and Erde as four-month old pups at that same Arctic Circle marker.

Day 26, Monday, September 9, Tanana Camp, Fairbanks, Alaska

Arrived in Fairbanks last night after a cold wet morning at Moon Lake Camp on the ALCAN.  I still owe a posting for yesterday which I will get to when there is time.  Fortunately, the rain stopped when we got to Fairbanks.  That was the first time in my over 180 camp sites during my journeys that I ever had to break camp in the rain.  Only once did I have to set up camp in the rain, at Natashquan in Quebec after a two day horrific trip on a cargo ship from Labrador, so I didn't mind it.  The challenge yesterday was to keep things from getting wet, and I did a pretty good job, considering the handicap I was under.

The ALCAN is much improved from my 2000 and 2001 trips and significantly more so from my 1992 trip.  During the 2000-2001 trips there were scores of miles of construction, delaying the trip by hours a day.  I now benefitted from all those delays.  You can go stretches of straight, flat open road for dozens of miles. The road has lost it's romance of an adventure, but you sure can get where you want to fast.  However, it's still empty of vehicles and you can drive for 30 minutes or more without seeing a soul.  And starting at North Pole it turns into a 4-lane highway.  I did not recognize North Pole because of how developed it has become. The same with Fairbanks.  Coming into Fairbanks was the equivalent of Gene Kelly going back to Brigadoon and finding New York City, but with a Walmart.

When I went searching for the camp I stayed in in 2000 and 2001, it was gone, turned into a city park.  But I found an equivalent park not too far and conveniently located to everything.  When I got to my site, some other camper, who looks like he night live he, scowled when I introduced us as his new neighbors.  Minutes later, he got into his car, opened the window,  turned up the radio basting some obnoxiously loud music, and walked away. When he returned, I put on Wagner's Ring of the Niebelung, equally loud, but I am sure it was as foreign to him  as hjs music was to me. I am convinced he did that to drive me away from his isolated corner of the camp ground.  I thought he was competing with or maybe related to my Prudent Lake neighbors, but when he realized i wasn't moving, he gave up and has behaved himself, taking his aggression out by doing hundreds of sit ups at a time just beyond my camp site.

We are in cold Fajrbanks (40 this morning, a pleasant 60 or so during the day) for three days, although tomorrow we will have a 400 mile day trip up the Dalton to the Arctic Circle.  What does one do on his day off from the road?  Well, below is my todo list for today and Wednesday.  Fortunately, everything is so conveniently located i can get more done in a day here than two weeks at home.

It is late, and I am running out of iPad battery so I will end this post now, play taps for my neighbif, and call it a night. 

Ed

907-888-8396 cell

www.OTR6.com

To do in Fairbanks

Monday

Charge everything, especially camera

Dry out wet stuff

Shower (only if dogs complain)

Organize stuff 

Make list to take on dalton Tuesday

Repaid rear window with velcro cover

Make Velcro covers for side windows

Take all gear off and out of Defender for dalton

Call vets for Erde's special food and orde

Visit dog  groomers for appointment 

Get new cell phone from AT&T

Grocery shopping

Organize stuff for dalton

Set up big tent for gear storage

Sign up for 2 more days at camp

Get Defender serviced at Jiffy Lube

Buy extra gas can

Pick up delivery of Defender seals at FedEx

Pick up delivery of Leben's wheel at USPS

Install Leben's wheel

Reorganize gear containers for Leben's spare wheel

Buy pipe  tobacco

Wednesday

Haircut

Laundry

Pick up Erde's foor at vets

Take dogs to groomers 10am

Get Defender washed

Take stock if food and supplies  inventory

Shop for food

Visit Chena Hot Springs in pm if time

Load gear back onto Defender 

Get things ready to move out early Thursday for Denali

Cash from ATM

Day 26, the trip so far, Monday, September 8, 6351 miles (plus 8000 for part 1) , tyg Fairbanks Alaska.

I'll post my blog for yesterday later, but here's the trip so far.  I am writing this sitting outside with Leben and Erde  in splendid 45 degree sunny weather in a Jiffy Lube parking lot in Fairbanks  while the Defender gets serviced, for the second time on this trip.

 The black line is the current trip, part 2 of our journey to the ends of the roads.  The green line shows part 1. The orange lines show our two planned side trips here, to the Arctic in the north and to Denali to the south, if all goes well that is.  Listening to my better judgment for once in my life, and for reasons i will explain later on my blog,, I decided to drive only to the Arctic Circle on the Dalton Highway  - although I could still tinker with our schedule and make it to Deadhorse at Prudhoe Bay -  and take full advantage of our five nights camping in and driving spectacular Denali.  Besides, Leben and Erde's attitude about still another haul up the Dalton to Deadhorse would probably be, "Been there, done that," and they would be right.

From Denali we head home to deal with Erde's tumor and other things.  From Denali we drive the ALCAN to Skagway, hop on a three-day ferry to Prince Rupert BC, take a day off, and hop on another daylong ferry to Vanvouver Island BC.  after a few days there, we head home via a still undecided route.  We might go by way of Yellowstone and camp there for a couple of days before hopscotching back home through a network of KOA's to stay in those cozy little cabins they have, not far from the highways.

Ed

www.OTR6.com

Day 25. Sunday...break on the ALCAN to Fairbanks

Leben and Erde needed a rest break from sleeping in the Defender on this cold, dreary,wet day on the way to Fairbanks, where will set up a base camp for four days before Denali.

More about yesterday later. Especially a most bizarre thing that happened this morning at 5:00 a.m.

Day 25, Saturday, September 7, 6147 miles, Yukon territorial park to Moon Lake State Park, on the Alaskan Highway

The ipad has this irritating habit of deleting the captions I put on the photos. I will go back later and add the captions to the postings.

This morning, when I woke up from a deep sleep, I could not find Erde. She was missing from the tent. Fortunately, I forget to disconnect her from the long leash I put on her at night when she lies outside the tent and so he not too far from he tent. Apparently, he has been watching how I open the two tent doors, except that I don open it with my nose as he does.

At 7:00 am today and yesterday I heard the humming of a motor and the soft pounding of feet getting louder and louder near the tent. Then, n a flash, a team of about 15 sled ogs came running by, pulling some motorized cart of a musher. Leben didn't reach at all,but I had to grab Erde and restrain her from trying to join the team. She and Leben actually were on a sled team in 2003. Unfortunately, I think the stress of that experience contributed to the collapse oh her immune system two weeks later. You would think that she learned her lesson.

Packed up my gear and hit the road at 9:30. Had to go back over to Dawson City to fuel up with gas, water and coffee. That community of 2000 (during the gold rush there were 40,000 people) has some of the best bakeries and coffee shops I have seen. Despite its location at the end of the line in Canada, it is quite a cosmopolitan community. The town center consist of about 8 blocks fronting on the Yukon River and runs about four streets deep. There are about 5 shops (including Lowe's Mortuary) on each side of the street of each block, all constructed in the tyle of the gold rush days. There are board sidewalks and dirt streets. An active steamer sits in the harbor. It is only one of two places I visited where I said I could live there for a year-long sabbatical. Unfortunately, some of the stores close this week for the winter, which starts in two weeks. Frankly, although I am not thrilled that the two mishaps on Thursday happened, especially on perhaps the loneliest and most treacherous highway on the continent, I have to say that I am thrilled they happened outside of Dawson City and that I was stranded there. And I was only 5 miles from the US border when I decided to turn back. My experience would have been quite unpleasant if I had made it to Tok in Alaska.

We made it to the border without incident this time and reached Alaska at last. Leben's wheelchair, with its new tire, was well secured to my roof rack later. And there wasn't a drop of oil spilled this time, despite no repair having been done, only a topping off of the oil in the transmission. This does not make sense, especially since I duplicated Thursday's trip and then more. Here's my guess. At Brandon, Manitoba, when I had the Defender serviced, I asked them to top off the transmission oil, but they said they couldn't open the cap. But Brandon, the mechanic in Dawson City, said it was quite easy to open. My guess is that the Brandon Manitoba guy actually open it partially without knowing it and when the oil expanded from the heart generated by the transmission, it spilled out. Nothing else could explain the large stream of oil I saw come out and then today, nothing Regardless, I'm thrilled it happened because of my stay in Dawson City.

Over the border, we hit the settlement of a Chicken. Unfortunately, over the last 12 years, it gas become a tourist trap. So I had intended to get out of town fast after restocking stuff. But when I returned to the Defender, some nearby man told me that Erde had tried to leap out the partially opened widow but got caught and was hanging over the side of the passenger door. How odd, I thought, because she had never done that before. I will spare my readers the details, but when I got into the Defender myself, I discovered why she tried to leap out. It took me an hour to clean the Defender and get underway. I have to give Erde credit, though, for trying to avoid the accident in the Defender.

We made it to this pleasant Alaskan State park, Moon Lake, right off the ALCAN at 7:15, and each of us went about our evening chores: I setting up the camp, Leben watching me, and Erde preventing me from doing my chores by barking fiercely to get me to throw the ball for her or tilting on the pieces of the tent I am about to use. Incidentally, the first thing I do when I get to a new site is to let the dogs sniff around. Leben, of course cannot do that, so instead of putting him in his wheelchair to o it, I walking hime around caring his rear in a sling So I have become an expert at sniffing out a new site.

We made it camp and I finished all the outside chores just in time to beat the light drizzle outside now. This means I will get a good night's sleep,so I am going to cash in on that gift now.

Day 25, as it is happening....ALASKA, 1:10, September 8th

Well, we made it to Alaska, at last. 25 days and 6002 miles later. I estimated 6000, so I was only 2 miles off.

Now the hard stuff begins.

Didn't lose any wheels or oil this time on the top of the world highway, thank goodness.

Some photos days 21-24

Sunset at Squana park. Leben and Erde had no interest in it.

Day 21 to Day 23

Day 21 to Day 23

Sorry for no postings these last few days. A few snags got me tied up in Dawson City, Yukon, for a few days.

I am going to have to be brief. Will fill in this posting in the future.

Drove from Squana Territorial Park, where I stayed before, to Klondike River Territorial park, which I was hoping to get to in order to refresh some fond memories of Leben and Erde chasing each other over the tundra and forest. Got the same great site (29) we has in 2001.

Dud not stay long in Whitehorse. Too big for me these days.

The road was far more beautiful than I recalled it so I am glad I chose this route to Alaska. Several great rest stops with nothing there but the view. Avoided a very bad storm, but got the benefit if a spectacular 180 degree rainbow. I coul even see here it ended. As I got closer, the end crossed the road right in front of me. Wow is Leben I can say.

Photos will have to come later if not here.

Day 22

Drove from Klondike park to Dawson City of Klondike fame. What a quaint place. Too bad it's 6000 miles from home.

Got on the road to Alaska via the spectacular Top of the World Highway. Stopped at about 15 miles for a view shot. Can anyone find of what is wrong in this photo?

Stopped for a rest break at 58 miles when I found out that one of Leben' wheelchair wheels had come off. Decided to go back looking for it, although I knew chances would be slim in finding it. At least I could order a new one to be Fedexed to me in Fairbanks for when I drive. Decided that this loss of one day would kill my hopes of getting belong Atigan Pass near Prudoe, my second goal for the trip after Denali. But if it was snowed in, I wouldn't be going anyway.

I stopped all three cars coming from where i came from on the way back to Dawson City to ask if they saw the wheel. No one did, but he first guy told me I had a serious oil leak from my transmission, which I did. Although you do not to drive with no transmission oil, I decided i did not want to be stranded there overnight or longer, so i took the risk and made it back to Dawson City by 4:00 p.m. After convincing the desk person at the NAPA shop to schedule me for the next day, i went searching for a solution to leben 's lost wheel. No one had one. But as I was leaving a hardware store, I saw a wheel barrel on display so I went back and bought only the wheel. It was the right height but too wide and rubbed up against the frame of the wheelchair. But I knew they'd be a solution.

At camp, the Yukon Ricer Territorial Park, across the river by ferry from Dawson City, I removed everything from the Defender with the expectation I'd be there for two weeks until the parts needed to repair the Defender arrived by truck. I used my big tent as a storage room, hoping the bears didn't treat it the same. Great camp, right on the banks of this famous river, but not one I'd relish spending two weeks in, especially in the cold. But at least I had plenty to read.

Day 23

Busiest day of my life.
4:00 Erde drags me from the tent at 4:00 for a potty break. i oblige, for reasons that should be intuitively obvious.

6:00 up and off to NAPA shop to be there at 8:00. Two hours later, Brandon told me I still had transmission oil so it wasn't all leaking out and I old drive the Defender. He topped it off and gs suggested i do the same every dy or so at a garage until the seal is repaired.

Got some suggestions from ken at the napa store on attaching Leben 's wheel to the wheelchair. He suggested i bring it back, so I drove back to camp, via the ferry, and got it. On the way back, I started my laundry, which I would go back to between errands.

Ken did an absolutely terrific job in coming up with a solution for attaching the wheel. I hope to show a photo.

Got an appointment at the hospital to have my leg checked. Dr. Gordon said he was not worried, but gave me some antibiotics just in case.

Bought a new watch to replace the thrice-repaired other watch, which I caanot find. I realized I needed one if I did not have the Defender and any way to recharge the ipad, cellphone, etc.

Stopped and got the dogs their treat for the day at an ice cream shop. I asked about the long lines. Mast day it's open so everything is free.

Waiting now for my laundry to finish. Tomorrow I must decide if I will take that road again and risk the same two things all over again. The option is two days more. To make matters worse, is supposed to snow, not something I relish driving in, especially on a road like the Top of The World. They close the road in winter.

This trip is turning out to be far more challenging than I expected.

Sorry for any misspellings. I don't have time to edit.

Will send some photos later.

Ed










Ed Mulrenin
202-747-4704 (mobile)

The trip so far, Day21, Dawson City, Yukon Territory) , 5750 miles, not including the 8000 from part 1.

Below is the map of the trip so far as we reached Dawson City in the Yukon.  The black line is part 2, the trip we are on now.  I have added part 1, shown in green, without including the emergency trips back home or the duplication.  

Our next stop is Alaska, just hours away.

Also below is a map of Leben and Erde's earlier cross continent trip.

I have not had time or interned to write the blog posting for dat 21, but I will do that at a rest stop.

The trip so far...

Leben and Erde's earlier cross continental trip...

The trip so far, Day21, Whitehorse (Yukon Territory) , 5600 miles, not including the 8000 from part 1.

I am sending this from Whitehorse in the Yukon.  As of  right now, we have finished leg 3 of the outward bound trip and have one more to go before we reach Fairbanks, Alaska, the end of leg 4.  At Whitehorse, after i send this, I will decide whether to head up to Dawson City and then over to Alaska via the Top of the World Highway or head up the ALCAN (i.e. Alaskan Highway, even though most of it is in Canada).  We will take that past of the ALCAN on our return trip so it would be good to have some variation, although it will cost us an extra day or two, which means we will have to rush through Dawson City, pun intended.i

Below is the map of the trip so far as we reach Whitehorse in the Yukon. (Actually, the black line should be farther north, at Whitehorse. Sorry.)   The black line is part 2, the trip we are on now.  I have added part 1, shown in green, without including the emergency trips back home or the duplication.  

Below that map is a map showing Leben and Erde's earlier cross continental journey.

Day 20, Tuesday, September 3, Boya Provincial Park BC to Squana Territorial Park in the Yukon, 5330 miles

This posting, like others this week, will go out late. No cellular for days. Same with the next two weeks.   Heck, there aren't even showers, so Internet is not a priority for me.  I need a shower more than I need Internet. The dogs, on the other hand, need Internet.

Got another late start on the road today.  It is difficult to break away from such unbelievable beauty.  Every time I think I have seen the best setting, the next one outdoes it.

In the interest of time, some random thoughts.

Our goal today was to make it as far beyond Whitehorse as we could toward Dawson City. But I recalled a park somewhere on the ALCAN I liked and was hoping to see if that was doable for a night. My recollection was that it as close to Whitehorse.

The road to the ALCAN (37) was quite a road. Like the ALCAN used to be.  Narrow road, small shoulders, sharp drop offs on both sides to support the elevate road.  Even going up straight, steep hills.  One does not want to drive this road at night, especially with animals getting in your way.

Gave up stopping to take photos and even taking them as I drive.  Way, way, way to many scenic views.  Besides, the photos do not do justice to the scenes.  Also, too dangerous to take them on the fly as the slightest diversion could mean a tragedy.  I have to keep in mind the focus of this trip is not to photograph, but to enjoy the drive, minimize the discomfort to Leben and Erde and to get to Fairbanks September 7th.

Tomorrow when we reach Whitehorse  we finish leg 3 with just one more to go to get to Alaska in just two days.

I almost lost some gear on the roof racket today.  And when you lose something, you don't drive back 100 miles to get it.  The ratchet gear strap got loose somehow.  Fortunately, as I drive, in addition to the road and control panel, I glacé frequently to the gear on the roof rack through the sun roof and am constantly looking in the rear view mirror for this purpose.I  earned my lesson in 2000 when my clothes bag blew off somewhere along a 450 mile stretch on the ALCAN.

My Poplar Grove leg wound is healing, but still problematic.  I have been using hot compresses and ice packs on it when I can, thanks to the advice of Tracy and Claude, whom I met at Kinaskan.

Sure enough, at 5pm, with 70 miles still to go to Whitehorse, I came across Squana Territorial Park, and sure enough, the best campsite in the place was available, as we're about 17 of the other 29 sites.  I grabbed the site and went to check in just in time, as another camper, a biker, was looking at it but he saw my sign with my name on it that I had posted. Later, I have him a bottle of my favorite Merlot to welcome him to the camp.

This site I am on is absolutely fantastic.  I will pay the penalty tomorrow  for stopping before my goal with an extra 120 miles, but it will be worth it.  The site sites on a bluff overlooking the lake. The rain that threatened us as soon as we pulled in never came, and the evening and with it the sunset, turned out to be splendid.  Let's just hope the bears are not attracted to the place tonight as much as we are.

Erde preferred to come right into the tent tonight instead of tsking her guarding, I mean sleeping position outside the tent.  Leben, on thevotherbhand, always prefer to get into the tent at the earliest opportunity, but he has to wait for me to give the signal.  And getting him into this new tent is not an easy chore since even I have to crawl in.  Just imagine having to carry someone while you are crawling on all fours and you get the picture.  But he is treated at the end of the chore, so he bears with how I have to get him in and then move hime to his sleeping corner.  Erde just goes where there is room for her, and sometimes when there is not.

Lets see what tomorrow brings. So far, the weather has been absolutely splendid the whole trip, but I know the rain, snow and cold are not far. But we are prepared, I hope.

P.S. Erde is much better tonight, her same old self.  I knew something was wrong this morning when she turned down a treat.  That was the first in 12 years. Leben still has yet to refuse his first treat.

Ed

Below...Erde enjoying the swing at Boya.

The Defender alone on the ALCAN

Below ... Sunset at Squanga Territorial Park, Yukon

Day 19, Monday, September 2, Kinaskin Provincial Park BC to Boya Provincial Park BC, 5071 miles for far (for part 2 of our journey).

As usual, got off from Kinaskan later than I hoped.  This happens all the time when I am in a spectacular camp, as is Kinaskan.  Too bad it's 4800 miles from DC.

my goal was to make it to or beyond Whitehorse Yukon to stay on schedule, but to stop at Boya  Provincial Park, 180 miles to the north and check it out.  If I got there after 4 and the park is as spectacular as everyone stats it is and I can get the best site in the place, I will stay there and make up the deficit the next day.

No bears on the road today.  I did see a stray dog, though, many, many miles from where anyone lived.  It ran into the forest when it herd the Defender coming so here was nothing i could do.

Driving the first half of the road today was like the old ALCAN: narrow road, virtually no shoulders, steep drop offs from the raised road, at time literally bordering cliffs with no guard rails, twists and turns all over, hills, virtually no clear cutting beyond the shoulders, etc.  You have to drive down the center of the road not only to avoid the bears who dart  across the road but to avoid going over a cliff, but you have to keep your eyes ahead of you or oncoming traffic.  Fortunately, there was virtually no traffic either way.  Thank God for that as for the first time on this trip I felt tired driving and was straying a little bit too much.  The second part of the drive was better on a wider road with a new gravel-lik surface and wider shoulders and wider clear cutting.

My inner self told me to bypass Boya when we got to it, but because I was tired I drove in.  It really is spectacular and the best site was available, although it was only 3:50, ten minutes before my conditional time.  After lingering at site 5 for 20, going over the maps and what ifs, all three conditions having been met, I forked over the $16 fee and pitched my tent.

Erde continues to enjoy herself, all at my expense, of course.  But I abide by her habits after I remind myself that the trip is or them as much as it is for me, maybe more.  Leben too is learning how to exploit the trip, now that he realizes that he is not being short changed on anything.

I continue to nurse my wound I picked up near Calgary.  I will call my doctor tomorrow to see if my tetnas shot is current.  If not, I will seek medical advice in Fairbanks when we arrive there. I will definitely have a 2-inch scar to remind me to stay away from RV camps, but I hope that's all.

Tomorrow we head to Whitehorse, where I will decide what route to take to Alaska.  If we get there early, I'll head to Dawson City of gold rush fame.  Otherwise, we'll go on to Fairbanks.

 There still has been no time to relax or ponder the bigger questions in life.  What thinking I get in is all stream of consciousness, flight of ideas while I am driving, listening to some of the 500 oldies I brought along, watching some of the most spectacular scenery speed by and wondering where we'll be spending the night.

After Leben and I head into the tent at night, Erde stays outside for hours, tethered to a long leash attached to my leg.  Then, when i am ready to call it a night, I literally have to drag or carry  her into the tent at night.  I'd let her stay out there all night, but I don't trust either Erde or the bears.

Ed

Photos

1- Morning sunrise outside our tent at Kinaskan Provincial Park

2- Leben and Erde sharing a nap before a hard days's drive

3- Why not just stay home and watch nature videos (and this one is small)

4- this is why they enjoy these trips

5- Our site at spectacular Boya Provincial Park (Erde does have a certain glow to her)

6- Please, sir, can I have some more (of your meal)?

Day 18, Sunday, September 1, Seeley Lake Provincial Park to Kinaskan Provincial Park, northern British Columbia, 4891 miles

If ever a day could be described as glorious, this was it. We left Seeley late, which seems to be the pattern, and made it down to the intersection of 16 and 37 by noon. As I was sending that photo of the North to Alaska sign, some trucker pulled up behind me and yelled, Move that Jeep, (expletive deleted). I admit, my stopping there made it difficult for him to turn, but he could have been more polite about it. I started to respond back, It's not. Jeep, (expletive deleted), but I was technically still on the highway of tears, so I gave him the the thumbs up sign and moved, letting him get on 37 first. As I got underway, instead of This Land is Your Land, I streamed Johnny Horton's North to Alaska from YouTube and after playing it once, the Internet went silent for the next two days.

What a great hunch I had about this road, 37 or the Cassiar Highway. 250 miles of continuous, awe-inspiring natural beauty. Lakes, streams, twists and turns in the road and vistas of mountain after mountain in shapes, sizes and geologists I could not have imagined. At one stop along the way, we were besieged by an army of butterflies that seemed particularly attracted to Leben and Erde, who watched them with longing curiosity. We came across five juvenile black bears along the way, but after photographing the first hiding in the brush, I moved on when I encountered the others so as not to cause them stress at this late date in their uper-hibernation period.
There is virtually no human habitation along this 500 mile paradise, except for a few junctions 100 miles apart. No cell service either, and little traffic. God forbid if a vehicle should break down.

We made it to Kiniskan Provincial Park about 6 pm. And what a paradise this is. Even Alaskans vacation here. Our site is right on the lake, although only Erde took advantage of that. As I pen these words, sipping my bottle of Pinot Noir and listening to Rachmaninov,she is lying outside the tent in the dark and cold, either thinking about new adventures tomorrow or when this will end. Leben, on the other paw, is lying beside me in the tent, sound asleep after a hard day of searching for new places to sniff on the road.

Photos below.
Our camp at Seeley Provincial Park
A butterfly from the butterfly rest stop we visited.
The Defender alone on the Cassiar Highway
Our camp at Kinaskan Provincial Park
One of the bears we encountered hiding from us.

Day 18, as it is happening

When I passed through this intersection in 2000 on my way home coming from the ferry at Prince Rupert, I saw this sign and said, someday I want to drive that road. Well, that someday is about to happen. It goes straight north to the Yukon 800 miles away, and from there we hit the ALACN to Alaska four days from now.

Ed

Day 17, Saturday, august 31, Pruden Lake Provincial Park to Seeley Lake Provincial Park, 4632 miles, 11 pages

Have to be brief. The road beckons. I will expand this blog posting later.

Cannon camera went on the blink. Only 11 months old and very few photos. My casio went out last year after 13 months, so Casio wins fir the best if the wortst. Fortunately, I brought both along.

Had to get a new container for dog food today at the local trading post, i.e. Walmart. Lost almost two hours. Tough funding the place, big store, long lines. But get back on the road, hoping to make Seeley Lake Provincial Park by dark. 300 miles.

Saw nice dog training school along the route, and thought about taking Erde in for a quick refresher, but realized it would be a waste of time, money and her personality.

Spectacular drive along the two-lane Highway of Tears. Lakes: streams of mountains, small villages 50 miles apart,...etc. never a boring moment. But, sadly, posters all over for missing young woman, and men too.

Had a very close call on the road because of blinding white late afternoon sun the that almost ended the trip, the Defender, and more. But all escaped unscathed, though shaken. Details later. I know know that true accidents can happen.

Was hoping to make Seeley Lake but was running out of time and sun, so I stopped 30 miles short of it at Ross Lake. Fortunately, there was no camping, so I pushed on to Seeley thinking the 20 sites would be gone. Not only were there sites, but I got the best one. Right across from where Sonntag and I stayed in 2000. As usual, met and talked with fellow-minded travelers, one of the enjoyable parts of the trip. But I always have to continue working as I talk because of time. A good measure of my free time is how many pages of my books I've read....still on 11.

Next posted photo will be from the road where we go straight north. We traveled 4632 miles so far northwest, now we go straight north.

Ed

Top photo...A rest stop along route 16 to Seeley Lake.
Middle photo..poster along the highway
Bottom photo..the view from our tent window at Seeley above the quiet lake.